Erin Fletcher has a nice blog post about how Susan Collard made her book A Short Course in Recollection. The book’s interior pages are an inch thick, to allow for a series of ramps and switchbacks for steel marbles to course down. Below is the finished book and another showing the book in progress. Much more here.
Ruth Bleakley has nice pictures of the process of making her pretty coptic journals. Here’s one below. More on her flickr page, her blog and her Etsy shop.
The last step in making my newest artist’s book, Snow Flakes, was to put the year on the cover and take pictures. The finished book is now available for sale here
After nearly 2 years fiddling around with an early Emily Dickinson poem, I finally got serious and finished the design so I could take it to Codex next month. It’s in the form of a ledger book, and I’ve been making the covers this week. I’ve never made so many jigs to get the pieces to line up! Getting the corners placed just right has been the biggest challenge for me.
I’ve also been sewing the signatures that go in the book. Here’s everything assembled, ready to punch and sew…
Only 2 things got lost in our move from California to New Mexico, a box of Christmas ornaments and my bookbinding steel rule set. I used the rules as guides for evenly spacing out boards or accordion folds. I keep meaning to get a new set, instead using some inferior replacements I made from Davey board.
One of the readers of this blog, Karen, reminded me that I still haven’t replaced the steel ones when she sent me steps to make the Fishbone Fold without calculating the folds beforehand, but rather doing the measurements on the fly. Either way will work, just really depends on your temperament, I suppose.
Here’s the second method. (The first method is here.)
I used a long piece of Arches text wove, 30″x6″ (see the previous post for measurements using smaller paper). In the finished book, the first “bones” will be 1″ wide and the spine sections between bones will be 1/2″ wide.
I also assembled these tools: a metal straight edge, an xacto knife, an awl, something to score with (I use a thick knitting needle), 2 template rulers made of Davey board or other stiff thick paper: one the width of the first fold (I used 1″) and the other the width of the spine between the bones (I used 1/2″), and my see-thru quilting ruler. The quilting ruler is not necessary, but I’ll show how I use it later on.
Fold the paper in half, long edge to long edge. Open it up and lay it flat.
Make the first 3 folds. Lay the 1″ template ruler at the left edge of the paper. Score along the right edge of the template ruler and make a valley fold.
Accordion fold twice more, the same width as the first fold.
An alternative is to use a see-thru quilting ruler instead of the Davey board template, as it lets you see the edge of the paper. My ruler is over 15 years old, and the plastic on the edges is too dinged to use for cutting. But it’s perfect for these sorts of measurements.
If you don’t want to score to make the fold, you can also use the edge of the ruler or template as a guide and fold the right edge of the paper up to it
Open the sheet so it’s flat, and lay the 1/2″ ruler template against the last fold and score.
Fold up to make a valley fold.
Cut a slit, along the horizontal fold you made in the first step, between the 1st and 3rd folds. To do this, I use my awl to poke a hole at the beginning and end of where I want to make the cut. The second hole tells me where to stop cutting, so I don’t over-shoot. When cutting, I try to focus on that second hole, rather than along the straight-edge. (I learned this technique and invaluable lesson about focusing on the second hole from a class I took years ago with Claire Van Vliet.)
You can cut after all the folds are made, but I found that cutting as I’m measuring and folding made for fewer mistakes.
Fold the right edge of paper to the left, along the last fold you made.
If you fold everything up again and turn the paper over, it should look like this:
Make 2 more accordion folds, using the previous folds as a guide.
Open the sheet, and using the 1/2″ ruler template, score and fold at the right edge of the template. Make the horizontal cut over the last mountain fold (between folds 4 and 6).
Keep repeating the previous 3 steps (accordion fold twice, score and fold using the 1/2″ template, cut over the mountain fold) until you run out of paper.
Your paper should have folds and cuts like this:
Fold the paper in half, long edge to long edge.
One at a time, push the larger bones toward the smaller ones, from left to right. You are pushing the mountain folds to the left.
Here it is all folded. See the previous post for ideas for making a cover.
The other day I asked if anyone knew how to make a spine using the “fishbone folding technique.” It’s apparently a Hedi Kyle structure. Lily Hoy put a comment on that post explaining how to make the fold, and then sent me some illustrations. I’ve spent a happy morning trying it out and making several versions. Below is one of them, and following that is the instructions. To cut to the chase, a summary is in this downloadable PDF. There’s also an Excel spreadsheet to help calculate where to score the paper. Many many thanks to Lily for taking the time to post the instructions and send me illustrations. UPDATE: Most posts about this fold are here, with examples and alternate ways to make the fold.
Lily explains
This is a combination fold that combines the single sheet vertical 8-page book instruction (with the slit on the long fold) with half-inch increments between the “bone” sections. Each bone section is the measurement of the prior bone section plus the half-inch. So the bone sections are 1, 1-1/2, 2, 2-1/2, 3, 3-1/2 inches wide. The last section is only a half bone that is used with a double pamphlet stitch to join the two bone strips to the cover. I was able to get six “bones” in my “signature” from a 36 inch long strip, grain long, of Arches Text Wove paper.
Here’s the layout on a 35+” piece of paper, to make a 3-1/2″ wide book. I used a 38-1/2×10 piece of Arches Text Wove to get a 3-1/2×5″ book (later on in this post are measurements for a smaller piece of paper, as well as instructions for making a book of any size).
Starting from the left, you’ll need score lines at 1″, 2″, 3″, 3-1/2″, 5″, 6-1/2, 7″, 9″, 11″, 11-1/2″, 14″, 16-1/2″, 17″, 20″, 23″, 23-1/2″, 27″, 30-1/2″, 31″ and 35″. (The PDF has these in a nice table format.)
I scored my paper, then folded it, then unfolded and made the cuts. The cuts are in the center, so in my case at 5″ from the bottom.
Here is the paper scored and folded. Notice that the “bones” get larger from left to right.
Next I made the cuts, in the center of each “bone.” Then I folded the paper in half, along the cuts, long edge to long edge.
One at a time, push the larger bones toward the smaller ones, from left to right…
until you’ve made the entire spine. In this case there will be 6.
Now to attach a cover. There are probably many ways to do that; in what follows I’ll show 2 of them. The picture that my friend Sharon sent me has 2 fishbones. So I made a second one. Then I cut off the excess of each one (the extra panel on the right), leaving a 1/2″ tab.
I opened each one up, put glue on the 1/2″ tab, refolded and bonefolded the tabs together. This would help keep the tabs together when I sew them into the cover.
The I tacked the 2 fishbones together with a glue stick, again to make it easier to sew into the cover. The fishbones have a top and a bottom—the top has the cuts you made along the center. The bottom doesn’t look so much like a fishbone. Be sure to have both fishbones right-side up when you glue the tabs together (I did is wrong the first time!)
I made a very simple cover out of scrap cover stock that is 7-1/2″ x 5″. I folded a 1/2″ spine in the center, aligned it on the back of the tabs I had glued, poked a few holes and sewed them together with a pamphlet stitch.
The book doesn’t stay closed with this cover. However the picture Sharon sent has a wrap around cover with a flap and tie that would do a much better job.
You probably can’t tell from the photos, but the second fishbone is shorter than the first, because I goofed on my measuring. But when I was all done, I like that book isn’t symmetrical.
If the piece between the bones is 1/4″ rather than 1/2″ and the first bone is 1/2″ rather than 1″, 5 bones can be made on a 11-3/4×4″ sheet, resulting in a 2×1-1/2″ book.
Starting at the left of the sheet, you’ll need to score at 1/2, 1, 1-1/2, 1-3/4, 2-1/2, 3-1/4, 3-1/2, 4-1/2, 5-1/2, 5-3/4, 7, 8-1/4, 8-1/2, 10, 11-1/2 (Use this Excel spreadsheet to figure this out for your spacing and initial bone size.)
I used a piece of paste paper for the bones. Here it is all folded. Then I cut the score on the little tab at the end
Then I glued the 2 tabs (A & B below) together
I used another piece of paster paper, 3-1/4×2″, for the cover. I folded a 1/4″ spine in the cover, aligned the spine with the tabs I glued in the previous step, and attached it with a pamphlet stitch to get this:
Lily’s illustrations and score calculations are in this downloadable PDF. She also mentions adjusting the divisions to deal with heavier paper.
Use this Excel spreadsheet to figure out where to score—just fill in the space between the bones and the first bone width (the first 2 lines of the spreadsheet) and the rest is figured out for you.