Shall We Dance? Making & Designing a Flipbook.

Cover for Shall We Dance?
Making a flipbook

In 2005 I started a new flipbook about a girl who is both a ballerina and a hip-hop dancer. My idea was that she would start off as a ballerina doing an adagio, and when she does a pirouette she turns into a hip-hop dancer who shows off her moves before turning back into a ballerina again. I drew rough pictures and made them into a movie but didn’t like the result. A flip book has to work both forward and backward, and I couldn’t make the story work in both directions. (My experience is that about 50% of the people who look at my flipbooks start from the back and the other half start from the front.)
A month or so ago I happened upon the folder with all the drawings, and I took another look at what I’d done. Since 2005, I’ve made an enormous number of the flipbooks I sell in my shop and I’ve honed the production down to an exact science. I realized just by looking at my sketches that if I applied all that experience to the story I’d started, I could make it work. Of course there are a lot of steps, at least for me, before I’m ready for producing the books. First I had to flesh out my story and draw more frames. These need to be scanned and cleaned up in Photoshop. I draw the pictures in black and white and color them after scanning, using Photoshop again. I get a more even color across the frames if I do the coloring digitally. The second picture above is an example of my first sketch and the final cleaned up and colored version. The hands and head were too big on most of my sketches.
I put all the frames in order in layers in Photoshop, all the same size, so I can turn layers off and on to see how things are lining up. I also print out the frames on one sheet of paper, like a condensed film strip, again so I can make sure everything is sized correctly, that the details in the illustrations show up, and the colors are okay. Here’s an example of that:
Mini film strip for my flipbook
A flipbook is sort of a movie, but depending on how fast the reader thumbs through the book, it can be slow or fast or smooth or jerky. But to get an idea of how the book would flip in an ideal world, I also make a movie using IMovie. Here’s the book playing forward:
[youtube KL2M3XKaQaE]

Finally, I’m ready to assemble everything for printing and binding. For that I use InDesign. To make cutting the books easy, I put a grid on the page, then put the same frame in each slot on the page, then repeat for all the frames in the book. Now when I print the pages, the book is collated, and all I need to do is chop it, staple it, and glue on the binding strip at the top. There’s no chopping necessary after the binding, to even up the edges. The page below shows the grid — the blue lines are the cut lines after everything is printed. The paper is letter-size (8-1/2″x11″), grain long (the staple/binding goes on the long edge so the pages flip well). I use fairly heavy text-weight paper (32 lb) — cover stock is too thick to flip well, and thinner paper tends to stick together.

Cut lines

That’s about it. All my flipbooks are are available here. I have other posts on my blog about flipbooks here.

Magnetic Base to Plastic Plates

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Removing the magnet top from my magnetic base

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Removing the adhesive under the magnet

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The converted base in my platen press chasse with a plastic photopolymer plate

When I started letterpress printing, the only way to print with photopolymer was to make steel-backed plates and then use a magnetic base to mount the plate in the press. Over time I’ve acquired 4 bases in various sizes. One nagging problem with these bases is that the magnet is weak to begin with and degrades over time so that the plates don’t stay put. I resort to tape and spray adhesive to keep the plates in register.
I’ve been making due with my weakened magnet bases, but as I started work on my 2012 calendar I knew I was going to have to get the magnets replaced or go to a plastic plate system. This system, introduced half a dozen years ago, uses adhesive to attach transparent plastic plates to an aluminum base. I knew there were lots of advantages to the plastic plates (for instance they are easy to cut using scissors and because they are transparent, you can align for registration more easily using marks on the base), but I was loath to buy new bases and replace the steel-backed plates I use to print coasters and book covers.
Then John Sullivan at Logos Graphics, who makes my steel-baked plates, told me he converted his magnetic bases to use with plastic plates by removing the magnet top and replacing it with a gridded mat he got at an art supply store. He attached the mat with the same sheet adhesive used on the plastic plates (he sells it for $3 a foot plus postage).

I used a xacto knife and metal ink spatula to take off the magnet top, and cleaned off the underlying adhesive with goof-off. Then using the sheet adhesive I got from John, I applied the gridded mat.
Some final gory technical details: One mat won’t make the base high enough and John suggested red pressboard (available from NA Graphics) but I didn’t have enough, so I adhered a second mat to the bottom of the base. It helps to have a measuring caliper to get the right height. A Boxcar aluminum base is .854″ high, my magnet converted base was .860″ before and after conversion.

Tilt-Shift Photography

Tilt shift van goghI’ve used a fair amount photography and some paintings in my books, and I thought tilt shift photography might be something to explore, especially since I can simulate it in Photoshop. Wikipedia defines the technique as “the use of camera movements on small- and medium-format cameras … often for simulating a miniature scene” — in other words it gives a real-world scene the illusion of being a miniature model. The detail to the left is from a set of Photoshop manipulations of paintings by Van Gogh. Look here for examples of photographs. There’s a Photoshop tutorial here, and this Google search will get you even more.

Tyvek Stencils

Kit Eastman’s Year of the Rabbit lunar calendarI got a note from Kit Eastman the other day. She wanted to show me her 2011 lunar calendar (to the left), a gelatin plate print made with katazome (japanese stenciling). She wrote her “use of Tyvek as a stencil material for the numbers and letters on my piece started with a post you made several years ago on tyvek as stencil.” On her blog, she’s got a post showing the stencil and printing it (there are 2 other posts on the process of making the print here and here.)
Kit’s blog is full of great pictures and descriptions of making her work. To find out the basics of katazome, she suggests looking at the how to page on John Marshall’s website.
Kit is giving away one of her lunar prints, the deadline to enter is noon on Valentine’s day, Monday 2/14. Look here for the details.

Jeannine Mosely’s Origami Bud

Jeannine Mosely’s OrigamiMy friend Tracey sent me an article about Jeannine Mosley, who’s been folding paper since she was 5 and has never gave up her origami habit. I really love the ones to the left. (You can make your own, it’s called a “Square-Based Origami Bud” and the instructions are here.)
Mosely is an expert on minimalist origami, in which one is restricted to just four folds. She has constructed an entire alphabet—both upper and lower cases—of minimalist origami letters (unfortunately I can’t find a picture of them).
She also builds 3D structures, like the Menger’s Sponge out of 66,048 business cards. You can see photos of the process of building the structure here and here.