Tools: A Simple Finishing Press

A Simple Finishing PressI mentioned this simple to make finishing press in my directions for the double-fan adhesive binding. But I think it merits a mention in a blog entry too. A ‘finishing press’ is used to hold the text block of a book vertically, spine facing up, while the book is out of its case and repair treatments are in progress. Normally the procedures performed while the text block is in the finishing press are the cleaning of the spine and the attachment of the new headbands, super, and spine liner. It acts as a vice, holding the book tightly, yet not damaging the text block. (The definition comes from Indiana University).
Directions for making the press are here. You can see photos of more substantial presses on Timothy More’s website.

Adhesives: Laminating

Xyron 900 laminating machineFor my recent book Walking, I wanted to print the insides on one long piece of paper. I had paper long enough — 26 inches — and with the correct grain. But it is a thin Japanese-like paper and I didn’t want the interior to be semi-transparent.
The solution was to laminate another piece of paper to the printed sheet. I tried using wet glue, but my gluing skills aren’t good (or patient) enough. Plus the whole thing curled, despite putting it under weight (it curled because the papers I tried were stronger than the thin paper, and when glued together, the stronger paper pulled at the lighter paper). I tried a non-wet adhesive (Yes paste) which doesn’t cause the paper to curl but it’s hard to work with on such a long sheet.
That’s when I remembered my Xyron laminator. I bought it originally to make kitchen magnets (it sandwiches a piece of paper between a magnet and thin protective plastic) but I also had cartridges that would apply glue to one side of a piece of paper. You feed the paper through the machine, turning the handle and the cartridge applies the glue or magnet sandwich. No electricity or batteries needed. The glue is spread evenly and the resulting sheet is easy to apply to another piece of paper. It’s not wet glue, so the paper doesn’t curl. The Xyron comes in several sizes. I happen to have the 9″ one, which turns out to be over-kill (and wasteful) for most of the projects I do — the 5″ wide model would have probably been a better choice.

Tools: Rulers

ruler6×12.jpg I make a lot of models — all cut by hand — before I commit to making an edition of anything. One of the tools I couldn’t do without is my plastic quilting ruler. It’s 6″ wide, 12″ long, and lets me cut 2 edges at once. Since it’s clear plastic, I can see through to what I’m cutting underneath. That and the printed grid are really helpful when trying to center something on a page. The only drawback is that over time I’ve dug into the plastic with my X-acto knife, and the edge of the ruler isn’t as crisp as a metal ruler of the same age might be. Quilting rulers come in all sorts of sizes: 4″x 8″, 6″x 6″… I have another one that is 6″x 24″ — it can be a bit unwieldy but it comes in so handy when I need to quickly cut up a large parent sheet of paper.
bookwizard.JPGThis week I bought a new ruler — The Book Wizard Tool. It’s an 8-1/2″ x 11″ clear plastic ruler with an 1/8″ grid (I bought it because it’s letter paper size). But it also has pre-drilled holes for marking stab bindings, pre-cut slits for marking diagonals and scores, and a booklet with instructions for making several types of Japanese stab bound books and an accordion book. I’ve used it already and I think it’ll make a good addition to my studio.

Lased

I’ve been wanting to design and make another pop-up book but the thought of all the hand cutting stops me dead. Then several months ago I found a place close to my home that rents time on all sorts of machinery — lathes, mills, fancy sewing machines that do embroidery, and something called a laser cutter. Book artist Julie Chen uses a laser cutter to make her intricate pop-up and layered books.
So I signed up to take a cutter class last Sunday morning. It was exhilarating and scary — the machine can cut and etch (or score) all sorts of materials, from paper to fabric to acrylic to wood. The instructor had even etched names into Triscuits! But you have to be really careful not to catch the material on fire (the scary part) since the cutting is done using heat.
I had a project in mind — a pop-up book that I had designed but set aside because it had more hand-cutting that I wanted to do. After the class I signed up to use the cutter on Tuesday morning. I figured if I signed up right away I’d both finish my project and not forget everything from the class. The instructor gave me some hints about registration (because of course what I wanted to do is covered in the ADVANCED class on using the cutter!) My plan was to print a design on paper that I would then cut into shapes, so the cuts and the design need to line up. A day and a half isn’t much time, so I pretty much worked non-stop getting prepped & ready.
I arrived at the appointed time on Tuesday morning totally over-prepared with lots of supplies and test sheets for set up and enough real printed paper for about 70 books (when I’m planning to make only about 40). And of course I didn’t need most of it. Instead, it was a rather uneventful couple of hours. It all went unbelieveably smoothly — I quickly got the machine set up and I spent the rest of the time inserting paper and watching the laser cut (took 2-3 minutes per 8-1/2″ x 11″ page). (And nothing caught fire!)

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Here’s some pictures and such about my pop-up and the pieces I cut on the laser cutter. My book is called “Fall” and includes this poem by Emily Dickinson. (It’s the last in a series of books I’ve done about the seasons.)

The morns are meeker than they were,
The nuts are getting brown;
The berry’s cheek is plumper,
The rose is out of town.
The maple wears a gayer scarf,
The field a scarlet gown.
Lest I should be old-fashioned,
I’ll put a trinket on.

I wanted a pop-up that illustrated the last line — some sort of fall trinket — maybe a pop-up flower…

card-pieces-4.jpgcard-pieces-3.jpg
The picture to the left is one of my test sheets in the cutter before cutting. It cuts like a vector plotter (are those made anymore?) — the laser traces the outline of the object as if a phantom hand were drawing it. In the photo on the right, that grayish line is where the laser cut to form the petals for one part of the pop-up. The darker reddish color is the design I printed on my ink-jet. You can get a better idea from the photos below:

card-pieces-2.jpgcard-pieces-1.jpg
On the left is the petal detached from the sheet. On the right are all the pieces of the pop-up. And here’s a model of the finished piece using the laser-cut parts:

mockup-card.jpg
There’s more work to do… on the background graphic, letterpress printing the poem, and then it all has to be assembled. But the really time consuming hand-aching part is done!

Tools: Tyvek

I’ve collected a lot of little paper scraps over the years, all thrown in a shoe box. I’m finally getting around to organizing them, by color in glassine envelopes I have lying around. I was also in the mood to make a book, and thought it would be fun to construct one with an accordion-fold spine with tipped-on envelopes (I wanted an accordion, rather than a fixed, spine so the book can grow as I add stuff to the envelopes.) There are directions for making this sort of book here. These directions use card stock for the spine, but that probably won’t hold up very well, so I used Tyvek instead.
Tyvek is a water resistant and nearly indestructible material/paper. White Federal Express envelopes are made with Tyvek. New home construction is often wrapped with it. It’s light-weight, doesn’t tear, but is easy to cut with scissors or an xacto knife. And, best of all, it doesn’t have a grain and folds really crisply in either direction. It’s great for spines in bookbinding. I get mine at Kelly Paper, but if you just want to experiment, you can buy a envelope made of Tyvek at an office supply store and cut it up.
The biggest drawback is that it’s a glaringly white color. Printing on it is difficult, but it can be painted with a sponge and water-based acrylic paint. Dampen the sponge, put a bit of paint on the Tyvek and use the sponge to rub out the paint into a very very thin layer. It’ll dry almost instantly. The paper gets a sort of marbled effect.

Painting tyvek

Here’s some pictures of my envelope book. Click on them to see a bigger image. Unfortuantely this book won’t hold very much of my paper scrap collection. But it’s perfect for having some scraps to play with at home, away from my studio.

Accordion spineFront of envelope bookSpine of envelope bookEnvelope book open